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KMID : 0604520200460040371
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
2020 Volume.46 No. 4 p.371 ~ p.382
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Optimization of In Vivo Stickiness Evaluation for Cosmetic Creams Using Texture Analyzer
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Ryoo Joo-Yeon
Bae Jung-Eun
Kang Nae-Gyu
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Abstract
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There have been continuous attempts to quantify sensory attributes of cosmetic products by measuring relevant physical properties. The most representative method to evaluate stickiness is to measure axial force using texture analyzer.
Stickiness is known to correlate with AUC which abbreviates area under curve in the obtained axial force curve as a function of time. Recently, Normandie University research group developed in vivo stickiness evaluation method considering the characteristics of skin along with established evaluation method[8]. Based on the study, we tried to optimize in vivo stickiness evaluation method especially for cosmetic creams. The experiment was carried out on 5 different facial creams products by changing the amount and the times of rolling of creams, and the shape and material of probes. Based on the results of the sensory evaluation, the most consistent conditions were established as the optimal evaluation method. As a result, applying 70 μL of cream and rubbing 10 times for 7 s inside the 3.4 cm circle were judged to be suitable. As for the probes, spherical metallic probe was more proper due to its reproducibility. We conducted the settled method on 10 subjects to check its validity. Although the absolute values of AUC differed depending on the individuals, the AUC values were all ranked the same. Finally, for the standardization of stickiness of AUC, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) was set as a reference material and we measured AUC of its aqueous solution by changing concentration. Then, the degree of stickiness recognition for 5 different creams was surveyed to check the correlation between AUC and stickiness.
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KEYWORD
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cosmetic cream, stickiness, in vivo, evaluation method, texture analyzer
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